Elegancepedia

Mode

Iconic look: Audrey Hepburn's white shirt and circle skirt in Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

"You see, she's supposed to be a princess disguised as an ordinary girl on the streets of Rome." — Edith Head

1952. Rome.

Audrey Hepburn, as Princess Ann, ran away for one day in Rome in a white shirt, a long circle skirt and a wide belt. It became the most iconic outfit of Roman Holiday (film, 1953).

Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt with Gregory Peck, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

The film

In 1952, the young and still unknown Audrey Hepburn was cast as Princess Ann in Roman Holiday (film, 1953), directed by William Wyler for Paramount.

Princess Ann is on an official tour of Europe. One night in Rome, tired of her duties, she slips out of her embassy. She spends a day of freedom in the city with an American reporter, played by Gregory Peck.

Edith Head, Paramount's head costume designer, created her wardrobe. Her designs won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design.

Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt with buttoned sleeves and Gregory Peck at a doorway, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

Of all her outfits in the film, the white shirt and full skirt became the most famous.

Edith Head explained the idea: "You see, she's supposed to be a princess disguised as an ordinary girl on the streets of Rome. So we made her a simple costume, so she wouldn't look different."

Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt, belt and long circle skirt, publicity photo for Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn in her white shirt and circle skirt, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

The shirt

The shirt was a simple white blouse, buttoned down the front, with long sleeves and soft, unstructured shoulders.

When Princess Ann first left the embassy, she wore it with the sleeves buttoned at the wrist.

Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt with buttoned sleeves, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn with the shirt sleeves buttoned, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

As her day of freedom went on, the sleeves were rolled up. Edith Head approved of it from the screen test onward. "In the picture, she had to look casual, informal and we felt, due to the heat of Rome in summer, a girl would really do this sort of thing."

All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953

Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt, neck scarf and circle skirt, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt, neck scarf and circle skirt, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn in her white shirt and circle skirt, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt with rolled sleeves at the Colosseum, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn at the Colosseum, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt and circle skirt on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck walking down the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck sitting on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt and circle skirt with Gregory Peck on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck at the Colosseum, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt and neck scarf riding a Vespa, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn on a Vespa, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn smiling in a white shirt with her new short hair, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

During the screen test, Edith Head also tried two jersey blouses on Audrey Hepburn, one with buttons and one that slipped over the head. In the end, the white shirt was chosen. Perhaps, for a princess, the jersey blouses clung too closely to the figure.

Audrey Hepburn in a buttoned jersey blouse and neck scarf, screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951
Audrey Hepburn in a buttoned jersey blouse, screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951
Audrey Hepburn in a slip-on jersey blouse with cap sleeves, screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951
Audrey Hepburn in a slip-on jersey blouse, screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951
Audrey Hepburn in a slip-on jersey blouse, screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951
Audrey Hepburn in a slip-on jersey blouse, screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951

The circle skirt

The skirt was a full circle skirt, falling below the mid-calf. It looked modest and demure, and it swirled when she moved.

There also seems to have been a second skirt, worn only for the screen test. It was a little shorter, with more volume, or perhaps she wore a petticoat underneath.

Audrey Hepburn in a shorter, fuller circle skirt, screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951
The shorter, fuller skirt Audrey Hepburn wore for her screen test for Roman Holiday, 1951
Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt and circle skirt, full-length photo for Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn in her white shirt and circle skirt for Roman Holiday

Blue or beige? What color was the skirt? Roman Holiday was filmed in black and white, so perhaps only Edith Head could have answered.

In some colored pictures the skirt is sky blue. In others, it looks beige. The doll makers seem to like the beige version: their Audrey Hepburn dolls all wear a beige skirt.

Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt and sky blue circle skirt, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn in a sky blue skirt, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn in a blue skirt with Gregory Peck in director's chairs, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn in a blue skirt on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn on the Spanish Steps, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn in a blue skirt sitting with Gregory Peck, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn in a white shirt on the Spanish Steps, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn on the Spanish Steps, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized poster of Audrey Hepburn in a beige skirt on a Vespa, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn on a Vespa in a beige skirt, colorized poster, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn in a beige skirt on a Vespa, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn on a Vespa in a beige skirt, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn sitting on a Vespa, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn on a Vespa, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)
Colorized photo of Audrey Hepburn on a Vespa seen from behind, Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn on a Vespa, colorized photo, Roman Holiday (film, 1953)

The accessories

On her feet, Princess Ann wore flat sandals laced in the Roman style. In the film, she buys a new pair of shoes at a street market on her first morning of freedom.

A wide belt cinched her tiny waist, between the soft shirt and the full skirt.

At first, she wore a small tie at her neck. As the day went on and Ann grew bolder, Edith Head gave her a jaunty kerchief, knotted under the raised collar.


The finishing touches

The outfit was not complete without the haircut. In the film, Princess Ann walks into a barbershop and has her long hair cut short.

On screen, Princess Ann wore the white shirt and circle skirt for only one day of her life. Off screen, the outfit took on a life of its own.

It has been copied again and again by copycats, and worn by women all over the world. They may not remember the name of the princess. But they want to be like Audrey Hepburn.